The roots of Dalit environmentalism can be traced back to the historical and systematic marginalisation of Dalits in India. In medieval Gujarat, the imposition of three-sleeved shirts on Dalits emerged as a form of oppressive caste-based identification. The significance of clothing in the context of Dalit environmentalism became a tangible symbol of social hierarchy, as Dalits were compelled to wear distinct attire to ensure their visibility as lower-caste individuals. This practice not only served as a means for the upper class to easily identify and segregate Dalits but also perpetuated a degrading form of social control. The importance of clothing in this context extends beyond mere attire; it becomes a powerful tool through which the oppressive caste system manifests itself. Roland Barthes, in The Fashion System (2010), sees fashion as a complex system of signs. Using this theoretical framework, the research extends beyond tangible clothing items, viewing fashion as a nuanced reflection of the world that transforms from the realm of garments to the realm of rhetorical codes. Through a focused textual analysis of three Dalit poems: The Song of Our Shirt by Nirav Patel, Question Paper by M. R. Renukumar, and Prayer by Basudev Sunani, this chapter deliberates on the significance of clothing as a tangible symbol of social hierarchy in the context of Dalit environmentalism. Additionally, how does Roland Barthes’s concept of the transition from the vestimentary to the rhetorical code provide a theoretical framework for understanding the symbolic transformation of Dalit clothing? Furthermore, in what ways can an exploration of Dalit clothing contribute to a deeper understanding of the interplay between socio-cultural, historical, and environmental dynamics in the context of Dalit environmentalism?

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Stitched in Struggle: Dalit Clothing as Symbols of Environmental Struggle

  • Ritam Dutta,
  • Amar Chakrabortty

摘要

The roots of Dalit environmentalism can be traced back to the historical and systematic marginalisation of Dalits in India. In medieval Gujarat, the imposition of three-sleeved shirts on Dalits emerged as a form of oppressive caste-based identification. The significance of clothing in the context of Dalit environmentalism became a tangible symbol of social hierarchy, as Dalits were compelled to wear distinct attire to ensure their visibility as lower-caste individuals. This practice not only served as a means for the upper class to easily identify and segregate Dalits but also perpetuated a degrading form of social control. The importance of clothing in this context extends beyond mere attire; it becomes a powerful tool through which the oppressive caste system manifests itself. Roland Barthes, in The Fashion System (2010), sees fashion as a complex system of signs. Using this theoretical framework, the research extends beyond tangible clothing items, viewing fashion as a nuanced reflection of the world that transforms from the realm of garments to the realm of rhetorical codes. Through a focused textual analysis of three Dalit poems: The Song of Our Shirt by Nirav Patel, Question Paper by M. R. Renukumar, and Prayer by Basudev Sunani, this chapter deliberates on the significance of clothing as a tangible symbol of social hierarchy in the context of Dalit environmentalism. Additionally, how does Roland Barthes’s concept of the transition from the vestimentary to the rhetorical code provide a theoretical framework for understanding the symbolic transformation of Dalit clothing? Furthermore, in what ways can an exploration of Dalit clothing contribute to a deeper understanding of the interplay between socio-cultural, historical, and environmental dynamics in the context of Dalit environmentalism?