Yonaha-maehama (Y-M) Beach is a cuspate foreland formed on the lee of Kurima Island located near the southwest end of Miyako Island and has been stable for a long time. However, severe erosion of the cuspate foreland began in 2013, and hotel facilities located behind the cuspate foreland were destroyed by erosion, and the sandy beach for visitors to the hotel was eroded. Recently, Typhoon No. 6 has hit Okinawa Island in August 2023 causing further beach erosion. During this period, on Nagama-hama and Nagasaki-hama Beaches located on Kurima Island, the shoreline significantly rotated. In this study, the mechanism of this erosion was analyzed using the energy balance equation for irregular waves and the BG model (a model for predicting 3-D beach changes based on Bagnold’s concept), given the change in the predominant wave direction measured on Nagama-hama and Nagasaki-hama Beaches located on Kurima Island. It was concluded that the erosion was triggered by the change in the predominant wave direction.

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Deformation of a Cuspate Foreland Caused by Rotation of Predominant Wave Direction Associated with Climate Change

  • Yasuhito Noshi,
  • Takaaki Uda

摘要

Yonaha-maehama (Y-M) Beach is a cuspate foreland formed on the lee of Kurima Island located near the southwest end of Miyako Island and has been stable for a long time. However, severe erosion of the cuspate foreland began in 2013, and hotel facilities located behind the cuspate foreland were destroyed by erosion, and the sandy beach for visitors to the hotel was eroded. Recently, Typhoon No. 6 has hit Okinawa Island in August 2023 causing further beach erosion. During this period, on Nagama-hama and Nagasaki-hama Beaches located on Kurima Island, the shoreline significantly rotated. In this study, the mechanism of this erosion was analyzed using the energy balance equation for irregular waves and the BG model (a model for predicting 3-D beach changes based on Bagnold’s concept), given the change in the predominant wave direction measured on Nagama-hama and Nagasaki-hama Beaches located on Kurima Island. It was concluded that the erosion was triggered by the change in the predominant wave direction.