Fashion, Conduct, and the Making of Respectable Femininity
摘要
“Fashion, Conduct, and the Making of Respectable Femininity” situates Regency dress within a moment of political and cultural uncertainty, and it treats fashion as one of the languages through which social order was negotiated. It explains how British and French fashions diverged during the years of war, and how the move towards classical dress produced a useful contrast between French display and English restraint. At the same time, it shows that Regency styles absorbed a wide range of references, classical, medieval, romantic, oriental, and military, and that these influences shaped both the look of dress and the materials that made it accessible and desirable. Building on this context, the chapter reads The Mirror of the Graces as a treatise that interprets clothing through a moral lens. Under the influence of Evangelical ideals of discipline and domestic virtue, the text repeatedly links taste in dress to manners and conduct, presenting modesty as a governing virtue and vanity as a persistent danger. The Lady treats clothing as an outward sign of inward worth, and she insists that propriety in dress is tied to age, rank, and the ‘station’ of the wearer. The final section places The Mirror of the Graces within the wider tradition of conduct books for women. It shows how these texts helped define respectable femininity through programmes of self-command, where appearance is never merely personal but publicly legible. The chapter also traces the continuity of this moralised view of fashion in periodicals, beauty manuals, and later etiquette writing, where simplicity, decorum, and restraint remain central to the performance of respectability.