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The accuracy of nearshore hydrodynamic model predictions depends on the quality of the forcing applied at the offshore boundary. Waves are represented statistically in phase-averaged models, while they are represented individually in phase-resolving models. Since XBeach Surf-Beat fully resolves infragravity waves, the frequency distribution of the forcing wave spectra affects the computation of the forced infragravity waves at the offshore boundary. We ran XBeach Surf-Beat simulations with two types of forcing: parametric forcing, where a JONSWAP spectrum spectra is reconstructed internally, and spectral forcing, which utilises the observed full directional spectra. For unimodal wave conditions, both the JONSWAP reconstruction and spectral forcing produced results that closely matched infragravity wave observations. However, under bimodal wave conditions, the parametric forcing (JONSWAP) was less accurate compared to spectral forcing. In regions influenced by multiple wave climates, spectral forcing provides a more accurate representation of nearshore hydrodynamic processes.

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Model Forcing with Parametric Versus Realistic Wave Spectrum

  • 会议论文

  • 出版模式：

    开放获取

  • 发表日期：

    2026年

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  • Stephanie Contardo,
  • Emilio Echevarria,
  • Jeff E. Hansen,
  • Ron Hoeke

摘要

The accuracy of nearshore hydrodynamic model predictions depends on the quality of the forcing applied at the offshore boundary. Waves are represented statistically in phase-averaged models, while they are represented individually in phase-resolving models. Since XBeach Surf-Beat fully resolves infragravity waves, the frequency distribution of the forcing wave spectra affects the computation of the forced infragravity waves at the offshore boundary. We ran XBeach Surf-Beat simulations with two types of forcing: parametric forcing, where a JONSWAP spectrum spectra is reconstructed internally, and spectral forcing, which utilises the observed full directional spectra. For unimodal wave conditions, both the JONSWAP reconstruction and spectral forcing produced results that closely matched infragravity wave observations. However, under bimodal wave conditions, the parametric forcing (JONSWAP) was less accurate compared to spectral forcing. In regions influenced by multiple wave climates, spectral forcing provides a more accurate representation of nearshore hydrodynamic processes.