For a large portion of sedimentary coastlines, waves are an essential driver of change at instantaneous to engineering timescales such that wave timeseries (e.g., the evolution of significant height and period) are commonly used to assess and exploit correlations with beach and shoreface morphological evolutions. This is for instance employed for wave-based depth of closure calculations and shoreline evolution modelling. However, the rarity of disposing of both comprehensive wave and morphological datasets means we still have limited knowledge on the influence of using differing wave timeseries on our comprehension and modelling of beach change. For this study, timeseries of bulk wave parameters obtained at locations covering a large range of water depths (~2 to 60 m bmsl) were quantitatively assessed in their capability to hindcast shoreline evolution using two equilibrium and a simpler correlation-based model already presented in the literature. It was possible thanks to recurring long-term (2003-present) beach surveys at Porsmilin beach, together with available varied wave data sources, which comprised two Wavewatch III hindcasts (ERA5 and ResourceCode) and a nearshore simulation (SWAN). Taking ShoreFor model as an example, this contribution shows significantly large variations in shoreline modelling performance depending on wave timeseries, whereby water depth at hindcast node and exposure exerted important control. This stresses that ideally sensitivity testing be performed for deciding wave measurement or modelling location, leading to improved comparisons between studies applying shoreline evolution modelling.

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Influence of Forcing Wave Timeseries on Equilibrium Shoreline Modelling

  • Stéphane Bertin,
  • Edouard Basquin,
  • France Floc’h,
  • Nicolas Le Dantec

摘要

For a large portion of sedimentary coastlines, waves are an essential driver of change at instantaneous to engineering timescales such that wave timeseries (e.g., the evolution of significant height and period) are commonly used to assess and exploit correlations with beach and shoreface morphological evolutions. This is for instance employed for wave-based depth of closure calculations and shoreline evolution modelling. However, the rarity of disposing of both comprehensive wave and morphological datasets means we still have limited knowledge on the influence of using differing wave timeseries on our comprehension and modelling of beach change. For this study, timeseries of bulk wave parameters obtained at locations covering a large range of water depths (~2 to 60 m bmsl) were quantitatively assessed in their capability to hindcast shoreline evolution using two equilibrium and a simpler correlation-based model already presented in the literature. It was possible thanks to recurring long-term (2003-present) beach surveys at Porsmilin beach, together with available varied wave data sources, which comprised two Wavewatch III hindcasts (ERA5 and ResourceCode) and a nearshore simulation (SWAN). Taking ShoreFor model as an example, this contribution shows significantly large variations in shoreline modelling performance depending on wave timeseries, whereby water depth at hindcast node and exposure exerted important control. This stresses that ideally sensitivity testing be performed for deciding wave measurement or modelling location, leading to improved comparisons between studies applying shoreline evolution modelling.