Sandy beaches are attractive yet potentially dangerous environments due to physical hazards in the surf zone. The most severe natural hazards are rip currents and shore-break waves, which form under varying wave, tide, and morphological conditions. This study introduces two simple, physics-based models to forecast channel rip current flow speed V and shore-break wave energy Esb. These models were applied to La Lette Blanche, a high-energy meso-macro-tidal beach in southwest France, where both physical hazards coexist. Lifeguard-perceived hazard data collected hourly from July to August 2022 during patrol hours (11 AM–7 PM) were used to calibrate the models. This data also informed a 5-level hazard scale, from 0 (no hazard) to 4 (maximum hazard). The models accurately predict hazard levels, accounting for tidal and wave influences. Requiring only basic beach morphology metrics, this approach offers a promising tool for forecasting surf-zone hazards on beaches with minimal morphological data and available wave forecasts.

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Simple Physics-Based Rip Current and Shore-Break Wave Hazard Predictors for Beaches in Southwest France

  • Bruno Castelle,
  • Jeoffrey Dehez,
  • David Carayon,
  • Sylvain Liquet,
  • Jean-Philippe Savy

摘要

Sandy beaches are attractive yet potentially dangerous environments due to physical hazards in the surf zone. The most severe natural hazards are rip currents and shore-break waves, which form under varying wave, tide, and morphological conditions. This study introduces two simple, physics-based models to forecast channel rip current flow speed V and shore-break wave energy Esb. These models were applied to La Lette Blanche, a high-energy meso-macro-tidal beach in southwest France, where both physical hazards coexist. Lifeguard-perceived hazard data collected hourly from July to August 2022 during patrol hours (11 AM–7 PM) were used to calibrate the models. This data also informed a 5-level hazard scale, from 0 (no hazard) to 4 (maximum hazard). The models accurately predict hazard levels, accounting for tidal and wave influences. Requiring only basic beach morphology metrics, this approach offers a promising tool for forecasting surf-zone hazards on beaches with minimal morphological data and available wave forecasts.