Surfing in today’s urbanized metropolis of Southern California requires a constant evaluation of risk vs. reward. The desire to score is often overshadowed by the necessity to prioritize one’s physical health and wellbeing. Wintertime brings epic conditions and pumping swell, but it also carries with it the lingering dread of rainfall that quickly washes pollutants down the storm drain straight to the coast. Southern California surf lore is laden with cautionary tales of those who didn’t heed the recommended 72 hour window of no water contact after rainfall due to high fecal indicator bacteria levels and paid the price. However, the threat of stormwater pollution extends beyond bacterial exposure which can result in rashes, infections, and gastrointestinal illness. Chronic exposure to pollutants generated from industrial manufacturing, agricultural runoff, and chemical waste which are discharged to coastal waterways have been demonstrated to cause long term health impacts. Surfers have proven time and time again to be some of the most ardent, resilient, and dedicated individuals to the craft, but many have been forced over the edge and driven from their home breaks. The impacts of water pollution extend beyond the lineup; it does not remain stagnant but transfers from land to sea to air to land, creating a cycle of continuous exposure. Defunct and failing infrastructure, coupled with rampant unchecked pollution erodes the very fabric of communities and decimates trust in government entities that are supposed to be responsible for preserving environmental and human health. As the number of surfers increases worldwide, so does the opportunity for effective collective action to demand clean water through robust funding of preventative safeguards and technological advancement.

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To Surf or Not to Surf: Risk Tolerance in Polluted Blue Spaces

  • David L. Brown

摘要

Surfing in today’s urbanized metropolis of Southern California requires a constant evaluation of risk vs. reward. The desire to score is often overshadowed by the necessity to prioritize one’s physical health and wellbeing. Wintertime brings epic conditions and pumping swell, but it also carries with it the lingering dread of rainfall that quickly washes pollutants down the storm drain straight to the coast. Southern California surf lore is laden with cautionary tales of those who didn’t heed the recommended 72 hour window of no water contact after rainfall due to high fecal indicator bacteria levels and paid the price. However, the threat of stormwater pollution extends beyond bacterial exposure which can result in rashes, infections, and gastrointestinal illness. Chronic exposure to pollutants generated from industrial manufacturing, agricultural runoff, and chemical waste which are discharged to coastal waterways have been demonstrated to cause long term health impacts. Surfers have proven time and time again to be some of the most ardent, resilient, and dedicated individuals to the craft, but many have been forced over the edge and driven from their home breaks. The impacts of water pollution extend beyond the lineup; it does not remain stagnant but transfers from land to sea to air to land, creating a cycle of continuous exposure. Defunct and failing infrastructure, coupled with rampant unchecked pollution erodes the very fabric of communities and decimates trust in government entities that are supposed to be responsible for preserving environmental and human health. As the number of surfers increases worldwide, so does the opportunity for effective collective action to demand clean water through robust funding of preventative safeguards and technological advancement.