Beach profiles provide useful information for coastal monitoring studies and management processes. Shoreline changes induced by erosion and accretion are natural processes that take place over a range of time scales. They may occur in response to smaller-scale (short-term) events, such as storms, regular wave action, tides, and winds, or in response to large-scale (long-term) events such as acrogenic cycles that may significantly alter sea levels (rise/fall) and tectonic activities that cause coastal land subsidence or emergence. The present research paper’s main aim is to investigate the field measurements of beach profile datasets and lab experiments to understand the physical processes such as wind speed, wind velocity, wind direction, wave heights, and tidal heights that are responsible for the shoreline deterioration. Field methodology integrates beach profile, wave height, and tide height data. Seasonal changes of beach profiles were studied using monthly data collected at 4 stations (2 km of coast spilt into 4 stations equally 0.5 km each station) (0: Station 1, 500: Station 2, 1500: Station 3, and 2000: Station 4) along the Kalpakkam coast. The beach profile changes indicate that the erosion is prominent in Station 3 and Station 4 and deposition in Station 1 and Station 2. Wave height was observed visually through wooden stacks every month at all the 4 stations. In which it is observed that the highest wave height was 1.3 m and the minimum height 0.3 m. As far as Kalpakkam shore protection measures are concerned, structures such as sea wall are already constructed. Despite erosion occurs on Stations 3 and 4 to minimize the erosion, a suggestion on coastal protection measures for strengthening shore by planting natural vegetation like casuarinas and fixing soil bags of geotubes from Station 4 to Station 3 will be a cost-effective solution to control erosion. Further, two layers of geotubes of one above the other will be an optimal solution for the erosion sites in Kalpakkam coast, especially in Station 3 and Station 4.

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Quantitative Study of Beach Profiles on Field Observation and Laboratory Experiments

  • Nagamani Katukotta,
  • Packialakshmi Shanmugam,
  • R. Nagalakshmi

摘要

Beach profiles provide useful information for coastal monitoring studies and management processes. Shoreline changes induced by erosion and accretion are natural processes that take place over a range of time scales. They may occur in response to smaller-scale (short-term) events, such as storms, regular wave action, tides, and winds, or in response to large-scale (long-term) events such as acrogenic cycles that may significantly alter sea levels (rise/fall) and tectonic activities that cause coastal land subsidence or emergence. The present research paper’s main aim is to investigate the field measurements of beach profile datasets and lab experiments to understand the physical processes such as wind speed, wind velocity, wind direction, wave heights, and tidal heights that are responsible for the shoreline deterioration. Field methodology integrates beach profile, wave height, and tide height data. Seasonal changes of beach profiles were studied using monthly data collected at 4 stations (2 km of coast spilt into 4 stations equally 0.5 km each station) (0: Station 1, 500: Station 2, 1500: Station 3, and 2000: Station 4) along the Kalpakkam coast. The beach profile changes indicate that the erosion is prominent in Station 3 and Station 4 and deposition in Station 1 and Station 2. Wave height was observed visually through wooden stacks every month at all the 4 stations. In which it is observed that the highest wave height was 1.3 m and the minimum height 0.3 m. As far as Kalpakkam shore protection measures are concerned, structures such as sea wall are already constructed. Despite erosion occurs on Stations 3 and 4 to minimize the erosion, a suggestion on coastal protection measures for strengthening shore by planting natural vegetation like casuarinas and fixing soil bags of geotubes from Station 4 to Station 3 will be a cost-effective solution to control erosion. Further, two layers of geotubes of one above the other will be an optimal solution for the erosion sites in Kalpakkam coast, especially in Station 3 and Station 4.