The analysis of textiles, dress items and their position on the body has a great significance for research on identity, as dress functions as a “visual code” that communicates about the wearer’s identity. However, for the Austrian Lombard period (c. sixth century AD), researchers encountered the problem that almost all graves had been reopened. Until now, there has been no comprehensive study of textiles from a Lombard period burial ground in Austria. The analysis and interpretation of textiles and feathers from Maria Ponsee, the biggest known Austrian burial ground of the period, is presented in this chapter. In addition to showing the spectrum of textile techniques, it demonstrates how textiles from reopened graves can be interpreted by considering taphonomic processes. Written and pictorial sources from the Italian Lombard period are used to discuss how certain aspects of dress identity such as gender, marriage, wealth, ethnic identity, cleanliness, chastity, sexualization or dignity were communicated, challenged or consciously used in deceptive ways. The results show that the disturbance of graves should not be seen as an obstacle to textile research and hopefully encourage further analysis of textiles from this context to broaden our understanding of dress and the construction of identity in the Lombard period.

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Textiles, Feathers and Dress Identity in the Lombard Period Burial Ground of Maria Ponsee, Austria

  • Anna Sofie Zimmermann,
  • Karina Grömer

摘要

The analysis of textiles, dress items and their position on the body has a great significance for research on identity, as dress functions as a “visual code” that communicates about the wearer’s identity. However, for the Austrian Lombard period (c. sixth century AD), researchers encountered the problem that almost all graves had been reopened. Until now, there has been no comprehensive study of textiles from a Lombard period burial ground in Austria. The analysis and interpretation of textiles and feathers from Maria Ponsee, the biggest known Austrian burial ground of the period, is presented in this chapter. In addition to showing the spectrum of textile techniques, it demonstrates how textiles from reopened graves can be interpreted by considering taphonomic processes. Written and pictorial sources from the Italian Lombard period are used to discuss how certain aspects of dress identity such as gender, marriage, wealth, ethnic identity, cleanliness, chastity, sexualization or dignity were communicated, challenged or consciously used in deceptive ways. The results show that the disturbance of graves should not be seen as an obstacle to textile research and hopefully encourage further analysis of textiles from this context to broaden our understanding of dress and the construction of identity in the Lombard period.