This chapter presents a review of 5 years of independent research on the hijab in London. The key argument in the section is the deconstruction of “false binaries” between Western and “Oriental” practices, by experimenting with the possibility of analysing the corset and the hijab as a parallel, in which the semiotic analysis supports the rhythmic isotopy uniting the objects. The five subsections explore different approaches to veiled-bodies, from plastic semiotics and experiential ethnography to a reflection on phenomenology and post-colonial theory. Growing from the tools developed in Chap. 1 , this section continues and deepens into the argument of body and dress as agents and the importance of analyses that contemplate the agency of the “object”. Besides the “West and Orient” binary, the semiotic mechanisms through which “identity as difference” is constructed are interrogated, examining how fashion and identity are always enunciated through the dynamics between pairs: I and Other, Body and Dress, and the Wearer and the Worn. Through the process of moving away from the programme of “looking for difference”, this chapter also presents a collateral reflection on how scholarship is made and why the researcher’s “orientation” matters.

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The Corset and the Veil: Identity and Otherness Between West and the Orient

  • Marilia Jardim

摘要

This chapter presents a review of 5 years of independent research on the hijab in London. The key argument in the section is the deconstruction of “false binaries” between Western and “Oriental” practices, by experimenting with the possibility of analysing the corset and the hijab as a parallel, in which the semiotic analysis supports the rhythmic isotopy uniting the objects. The five subsections explore different approaches to veiled-bodies, from plastic semiotics and experiential ethnography to a reflection on phenomenology and post-colonial theory. Growing from the tools developed in Chap. 1 , this section continues and deepens into the argument of body and dress as agents and the importance of analyses that contemplate the agency of the “object”. Besides the “West and Orient” binary, the semiotic mechanisms through which “identity as difference” is constructed are interrogated, examining how fashion and identity are always enunciated through the dynamics between pairs: I and Other, Body and Dress, and the Wearer and the Worn. Through the process of moving away from the programme of “looking for difference”, this chapter also presents a collateral reflection on how scholarship is made and why the researcher’s “orientation” matters.