The conventional pattern drafting methods rely on manual anthropometric approaches and fail to fit the diverse body forms. The 3D body scanning technologies provide the opportunity to optimise the pattern theory. Body scanning generates a digital model allowing a great depth of measurement data of human body dimensions for the drafting process. The bespoke jacket with body shaping function typically causes fit issues, following traditional manual drafts. Compared to the male, a women’s upper body shows more varied contours. However, there is limited study focused on increasing the women bespoke jacket functionality through novel anthropometric technology with an engineering approach. This study starts to address this gap. Method: through the parametric pattern experiments in Seamly2D software and applying the body measurements from Size Stream 3D scanner, the conventional bespoke jacket method is enhanced. Both the traditional and parametric methods are compared on five different body forms considering the measurements’ usage, ease and the torso shaping validity. The body forms are selected from 148 Chinese females’ measurements data of Size Stream 2020. Findings: The parametric method uses a great number of direct measurements than the conventional method. The waist and hip ease of the conventional method illustrate inconsistency on four body forms and the parametric method illustrates a more consistent percentage of waist ease. The torso shaping device of the parametric method allow variability of the pattern with the different body forms, but the conventional method only considers the fixed value. Briefly, the parametric method illustrates stronger pattern-person relationship.

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3D Scan Technology to Enhance Body to Pattern Theory: Comparing the Conventional Bespoke Jacket Method with a Novel Parametric Method

  • Renhao Wang,
  • Simeon Gill,
  • Steven G. Hayes

摘要

The conventional pattern drafting methods rely on manual anthropometric approaches and fail to fit the diverse body forms. The 3D body scanning technologies provide the opportunity to optimise the pattern theory. Body scanning generates a digital model allowing a great depth of measurement data of human body dimensions for the drafting process. The bespoke jacket with body shaping function typically causes fit issues, following traditional manual drafts. Compared to the male, a women’s upper body shows more varied contours. However, there is limited study focused on increasing the women bespoke jacket functionality through novel anthropometric technology with an engineering approach. This study starts to address this gap. Method: through the parametric pattern experiments in Seamly2D software and applying the body measurements from Size Stream 3D scanner, the conventional bespoke jacket method is enhanced. Both the traditional and parametric methods are compared on five different body forms considering the measurements’ usage, ease and the torso shaping validity. The body forms are selected from 148 Chinese females’ measurements data of Size Stream 2020. Findings: The parametric method uses a great number of direct measurements than the conventional method. The waist and hip ease of the conventional method illustrate inconsistency on four body forms and the parametric method illustrates a more consistent percentage of waist ease. The torso shaping device of the parametric method allow variability of the pattern with the different body forms, but the conventional method only considers the fixed value. Briefly, the parametric method illustrates stronger pattern-person relationship.