This chapter investigates the consumption of hair in a Global South context. It starts with an overview of the conditions of existence among Black South African, primarily less privileged women, which differ markedly from those of the Finnish women. As Black women they face classed, racialised and gendered inequality. I go on to explore how wigs and weaves of human hair are acquired and used to make the wearers look like ‘somebody’. The focus then switches to femininity and how it intertwines with race. The persistent denigration of Black hair and Black womanhood as well as economic inequality lurk in the background, at the same time as women navigate between their need for the hair and pressures from an Afro-centred natural hair movement. The rest of the chapter concentrates on the long and straight wig as a technology of extraordinariness, which distinguishes less privileged women from the chronically poor majority and aligns them with local and global higher classes. I investigate how human hair becomes a matter of status as well as a marker of modernity and economic advancement. The wig signifies global belonging and affluence, and has to do with a deeply felt need to be accepted.

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Consuming Hair in South Africa

  • Riitta Högbacka

摘要

This chapter investigates the consumption of hair in a Global South context. It starts with an overview of the conditions of existence among Black South African, primarily less privileged women, which differ markedly from those of the Finnish women. As Black women they face classed, racialised and gendered inequality. I go on to explore how wigs and weaves of human hair are acquired and used to make the wearers look like ‘somebody’. The focus then switches to femininity and how it intertwines with race. The persistent denigration of Black hair and Black womanhood as well as economic inequality lurk in the background, at the same time as women navigate between their need for the hair and pressures from an Afro-centred natural hair movement. The rest of the chapter concentrates on the long and straight wig as a technology of extraordinariness, which distinguishes less privileged women from the chronically poor majority and aligns them with local and global higher classes. I investigate how human hair becomes a matter of status as well as a marker of modernity and economic advancement. The wig signifies global belonging and affluence, and has to do with a deeply felt need to be accepted.