This chapter introduces a fourth comestible—cacao, especially in the form of chocolate—to compare prominent themes that the focus on salt, cod, and sugar elucidate. The inextricably interdependent networks of salt, cod, and sugar in the early modern period were built with enslaved, coerced labor, fueling the astronomical wealth of empires. Cacao was one of the first sources of significant agricultural wealth in Spanish America and consequently offers many points of comparison with sugar, salt, and cod. Early modern cacao cultivation contrasts with the triad in terms of feeding labor, as the growth of the chocolate trade moved cacao to markets beyond the reach of cacao farmers, setting a pattern in the inequality of producers and consumers that persists today. Cacao and chocolate share commonalities with sugar, salt, and cod in four important ways: (1) relationships of commercial centers and networks; (2) processes of settler colonialism; (3) entrenchment of structural inequalities; and (4) consumerism and cuisine as history.

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Sweet, Salty, Savory, and Sublime: Cacao and Chocolate Compared to the Triad of Sugar, Salt, and Cod

  • Kathryn E. Sampeck

摘要

This chapter introduces a fourth comestible—cacao, especially in the form of chocolate—to compare prominent themes that the focus on salt, cod, and sugar elucidate. The inextricably interdependent networks of salt, cod, and sugar in the early modern period were built with enslaved, coerced labor, fueling the astronomical wealth of empires. Cacao was one of the first sources of significant agricultural wealth in Spanish America and consequently offers many points of comparison with sugar, salt, and cod. Early modern cacao cultivation contrasts with the triad in terms of feeding labor, as the growth of the chocolate trade moved cacao to markets beyond the reach of cacao farmers, setting a pattern in the inequality of producers and consumers that persists today. Cacao and chocolate share commonalities with sugar, salt, and cod in four important ways: (1) relationships of commercial centers and networks; (2) processes of settler colonialism; (3) entrenchment of structural inequalities; and (4) consumerism and cuisine as history.