Textile and fashion industry is considered to be one of the most environmentally polluting industries. There are many processes involved in making a fashion garment, out of which coloration has adverse effects on environment and human health. Fashion industry is dynamic and hence coloration is inevitable. Most of the recent developments concentrate for sustainable process and techniques in the area of dyeing and printing. India being a land of cultural heritage is well known for its natural dyeing and techniques and hence sustainability is not a new phenomenon. Pre-historic period of Bimbedka caves in India and Altamira caves in Spain are considered to be one of the oldest cave in the world as per archeological findings. It is evident that the pigments used in Cave painting are derived naturally without causing any harm to the environment and has been eco-friendly and sustainable. The commonly found colors in the cave painting are red, black, white, and brown. During historic period, paintings such as Kalighat are done on fabric also called “patas.” One of the major concerns in modern day natural dyeing is the fixation whereas the cave paintings withstand thousands of years beside all climatic changes. This paper will provide a detailed analysis on the different color pigments used on caves and fabric from different natural sources like roots, flowers, leaves, flowers, fruits, tree barks, animal-tusks, horns, insects, and minerals. It addresses the composition of dye pigments used in India and Europe during historic and prehistoric period to understand the differences, insights on the challenges and drawbacks of using it in the present day dyeing process. This paper also emphasis on the evolution of ancient dye pigments used by our ancestors and to apply the knowledge on current sustainable coloration process in fashion industry.

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Ancient (Pre-historic and Historic) Indian and European Dye Pigments: A Case Study

  • Charmini Balasubramanian,
  • Parthiban Manickam

摘要

Textile and fashion industry is considered to be one of the most environmentally polluting industries. There are many processes involved in making a fashion garment, out of which coloration has adverse effects on environment and human health. Fashion industry is dynamic and hence coloration is inevitable. Most of the recent developments concentrate for sustainable process and techniques in the area of dyeing and printing. India being a land of cultural heritage is well known for its natural dyeing and techniques and hence sustainability is not a new phenomenon. Pre-historic period of Bimbedka caves in India and Altamira caves in Spain are considered to be one of the oldest cave in the world as per archeological findings. It is evident that the pigments used in Cave painting are derived naturally without causing any harm to the environment and has been eco-friendly and sustainable. The commonly found colors in the cave painting are red, black, white, and brown. During historic period, paintings such as Kalighat are done on fabric also called “patas.” One of the major concerns in modern day natural dyeing is the fixation whereas the cave paintings withstand thousands of years beside all climatic changes. This paper will provide a detailed analysis on the different color pigments used on caves and fabric from different natural sources like roots, flowers, leaves, flowers, fruits, tree barks, animal-tusks, horns, insects, and minerals. It addresses the composition of dye pigments used in India and Europe during historic and prehistoric period to understand the differences, insights on the challenges and drawbacks of using it in the present day dyeing process. This paper also emphasis on the evolution of ancient dye pigments used by our ancestors and to apply the knowledge on current sustainable coloration process in fashion industry.