On the Authenticity of Natural Wine
摘要
With the recent proliferation of ‘alternative’ fields of food and drink, authenticity is an increasingly important attribute in the categorisation and valuation of food stuffs. In the fine wine field, the emergence of natural wine as a category is arguably connected to such developments. This chapter analyses articles published in two magazines oriented towards fine wine to examine how attributions of authenticity and inauthenticity are constructed in media representations of natural wine. I show that (in)authenticity claims were made along six interrelated dimensions: production methods, transparency, aesthetic qualities, physical geography, historical traditions and personal characteristics. Natural wine was an ambiguous object of authenticity in both magazines. Attributions of (in)authenticity were contested and frequently made through a purity–impurity distinction. In this way, the chapter demonstrates how attributions of authenticity to wine and other cultural objects can have an uncertain status and be the subject of contention.