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The errors inherent in the use of the Airy wave near the shore are solved by somewhat more complex theories from a mathematical point of view. This chapter addresses the Stokes II wave and the Cnoidal wave, along with a particular case of the latter: the tsunami. Again, a number of completed activities make it easier the understanding of theoretical concepts and facilitate the use of different theories.

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Other Waves

  • 章节

  • 发表日期：

    2025年

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  • Juan J. Muñoz-Perez,
  • Antonio Contreras-de-Villar,
  • Pilar Diaz-Carrasco

摘要

The errors inherent in the use of the Airy wave near the shore are solved by somewhat more complex theories from a mathematical point of view. This chapter addresses the Stokes II wave and the Cnoidal wave, along with a particular case of the latter: the tsunami. Again, a number of completed activities make it easier the understanding of theoretical concepts and facilitate the use of different theories.