<p>Traditionally, beach states are defined from visual observations, in-situ measurements and/or video imagery, which limits their application to a handful of well-instrumented sites. In this work, we propose a different approach by focusing on a remotely observable quantity: the cross-shore distance between the offshore wave-breaking and the shoreline position, denoted <InlineEquation ID="IEq1"> <EquationSource Format="TEX">\(X_b\)</EquationSource> </InlineEquation>. This metric defines the <i>active</i> beach state, capturing where waves dissipate energy relative to the underlying morphology. Using 10 years of Sentinel-2 imagery, <InlineEquation ID="IEq2"> <EquationSource Format="TEX">\(X_b\)</EquationSource> </InlineEquation> is evaluated across 30 wave-dominated microtidal sandy beaches spanning reflective to fully dissipative conditions. The metric reproduces the structure of classical beach state frameworks and enables classification into five active states (R, LTT, TBR/RBB, LBT, and D) using transferable thresholds. <InlineEquation ID="IEq3"> <EquationSource Format="TEX">\(X_b\)</EquationSource> </InlineEquation> is continuous, thus it also reveals how beach state evolve through time, allowing quantification of state occurrence, residence time, and transitions, with seasonal variability consistent with independent classifications at well-studied sites. Furthermore, using empirical relationships, we demonstrate that <InlineEquation ID="IEq4"> <EquationSource Format="TEX">\(X_b\)</EquationSource> </InlineEquation> carries first-order information about beach-face slope (<InlineEquation ID="IEq5"> <EquationSource Format="TEX">\(\tan \beta\)</EquationSource> </InlineEquation>) and sediment grain size (<InlineEquation ID="IEq6"> <EquationSource Format="TEX">\(D_{50}\)</EquationSource> </InlineEquation>), opening a pathway toward systematic satellite-based monitoring of coastal morphodynamics at regional to global scales.</p>

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Multi-site assessment of microtidal wave-dominated active beach state and morpho-sedimentary parameters using optical satellite imagery

  • Salomé Frugier,
  • Rafael Almar,
  • Erwin W. J. Bergsma,
  • Marcan Graffin,
  • Gerben Ruessink

摘要

Traditionally, beach states are defined from visual observations, in-situ measurements and/or video imagery, which limits their application to a handful of well-instrumented sites. In this work, we propose a different approach by focusing on a remotely observable quantity: the cross-shore distance between the offshore wave-breaking and the shoreline position, denoted \(X_b\) . This metric defines the active beach state, capturing where waves dissipate energy relative to the underlying morphology. Using 10 years of Sentinel-2 imagery, \(X_b\) is evaluated across 30 wave-dominated microtidal sandy beaches spanning reflective to fully dissipative conditions. The metric reproduces the structure of classical beach state frameworks and enables classification into five active states (R, LTT, TBR/RBB, LBT, and D) using transferable thresholds. \(X_b\) is continuous, thus it also reveals how beach state evolve through time, allowing quantification of state occurrence, residence time, and transitions, with seasonal variability consistent with independent classifications at well-studied sites. Furthermore, using empirical relationships, we demonstrate that \(X_b\) carries first-order information about beach-face slope ( \(\tan \beta\) ) and sediment grain size ( \(D_{50}\) ), opening a pathway toward systematic satellite-based monitoring of coastal morphodynamics at regional to global scales.