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<p>Estuaries represent transitional environments where fluvial, tidal, and wave processes interact in complex ways that differ markedly from open coasts. The Río de la Plata estuary, covering ~ 35,000&#xa0;km², is one of the widest in the world. Along its southern shore, characterized by marshes and scarce sandy beaches, a pronounced erosional trend has recently been reported. The objective of this study is to identify the main processes controlling shoreline morphodynamics on a beach within a sector of a wide-fetch estuary. To this end, high-resolution, semi‐annual monitoring was conducted over the 2020–2024 period using Structure from Motion Multi-View Stereo (SfM‐MVS) techniques at a site in the middle Río de la Plata estuary, together with a simultaneous analysis of the wave climate. Results indicate a net erosive trend across the entire beach, with strong spatial variability. The northern sector experienced the most severe erosion (up to − 1.5&#xa0;m), including profile lowering, escarpment retreat, and exposure of underlying claystones. Waveclimate parameters show mean values of breaking wave height (Hb = 0.52&#xa0;m), breaking wave angle (θb = 70°), and incident wave energy flux (Pib = 1.37&#xa0;kJ/ms). Seasonality is pronounced: mean wave height increases by 18% from winter (0.47&#xa0;m) to summer (0.56&#xa0;m), accompanied by a shift in wave direction of 3°, while the frequency of moderate and extreme events also increases during summer. Spatio-temporal change patterns are linked to shoreline geometry, orientation, human activities and local wave conditions. Increasing wind-driven wave activity suggests heightened erosive forcing and highlights the need to reconsider current coastal protection strategies.</p>

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Wave-Climate–Driven Seasonal Morphodynamic Changes on an Estuarine Beach (Río de la Plata, Argentina)

  • 期刊论文

  • 发表日期：

    2026年6月29日

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  • Francisco A. Cellone,
  • Luciano López,
  • Guido Bacino,
  • Mariana S. Olivo,
  • Manuel F. Isla,
  • María Pisoni

摘要

Estuaries represent transitional environments where fluvial, tidal, and wave processes interact in complex ways that differ markedly from open coasts. The Río de la Plata estuary, covering ~ 35,000 km², is one of the widest in the world. Along its southern shore, characterized by marshes and scarce sandy beaches, a pronounced erosional trend has recently been reported. The objective of this study is to identify the main processes controlling shoreline morphodynamics on a beach within a sector of a wide-fetch estuary. To this end, high-resolution, semi‐annual monitoring was conducted over the 2020–2024 period using Structure from Motion Multi-View Stereo (SfM‐MVS) techniques at a site in the middle Río de la Plata estuary, together with a simultaneous analysis of the wave climate. Results indicate a net erosive trend across the entire beach, with strong spatial variability. The northern sector experienced the most severe erosion (up to − 1.5 m), including profile lowering, escarpment retreat, and exposure of underlying claystones. Waveclimate parameters show mean values of breaking wave height (Hb = 0.52 m), breaking wave angle (θb = 70°), and incident wave energy flux (Pib = 1.37 kJ/ms). Seasonality is pronounced: mean wave height increases by 18% from winter (0.47 m) to summer (0.56 m), accompanied by a shift in wave direction of 3°, while the frequency of moderate and extreme events also increases during summer. Spatio-temporal change patterns are linked to shoreline geometry, orientation, human activities and local wave conditions. Increasing wind-driven wave activity suggests heightened erosive forcing and highlights the need to reconsider current coastal protection strategies.