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<p>Amino acids, known for their natural sources and good biocompatibility, have been increasingly incorporated into hair care cosmetics. In this work, their hair care performance and underlying mechanisms were investigated. The hair care performance of amino acids was evaluated on damaged hair through tensile test, combing test, and optical contact angle measurement. The results showed that glycine exhibited superior performance to alanine and phenylalanine. The keratin-interaction mechanism was then unraveled based on molecule docking simulation and a series of experiments including fiber stress relaxation tests, differential scanning calorimetry, thermogravimetric analysis, and Raman spectroscopy. The superior repair performance of glycine was then ascribed to more abundant adsorption sites for glycine on hair keratin. Adsorbed glycine could replace water molecules to form hydrogen bonds and ionic bonds with keratin, thereby enhancing the tensile properties and thermal stability of the hair. It also helped to release lipid molecules bonded in hair cortex by competitive adsorption, which resulted in free lipids diffusing toward hair surface as proved by Raman characterization.</p>

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Amino Acid as Hair Repair Agent: Unraveling its Mechanism of Interaction with Keratin

  • 期刊论文

  • 发表日期：

    2026年5月21日

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  • Kuan Chang,
  • Jiayi Fan,
  • Lei Wu,
  • Xiaoying Bian,
  • Lingjia Yue,
  • Jinhua Li,
  • Jing Wang

摘要

Amino acids, known for their natural sources and good biocompatibility, have been increasingly incorporated into hair care cosmetics. In this work, their hair care performance and underlying mechanisms were investigated. The hair care performance of amino acids was evaluated on damaged hair through tensile test, combing test, and optical contact angle measurement. The results showed that glycine exhibited superior performance to alanine and phenylalanine. The keratin-interaction mechanism was then unraveled based on molecule docking simulation and a series of experiments including fiber stress relaxation tests, differential scanning calorimetry, thermogravimetric analysis, and Raman spectroscopy. The superior repair performance of glycine was then ascribed to more abundant adsorption sites for glycine on hair keratin. Adsorbed glycine could replace water molecules to form hydrogen bonds and ionic bonds with keratin, thereby enhancing the tensile properties and thermal stability of the hair. It also helped to release lipid molecules bonded in hair cortex by competitive adsorption, which resulted in free lipids diffusing toward hair surface as proved by Raman characterization.