<p>A yellow natural dye from wood extract of <i>Arcangelisia flava</i> (L.) Merr. was investigated to dye cotton fabrics. In the preliminary phytochemical screening, the aqueous extract of <i>A. flava</i> stem was found to contain tannins/phenolic compounds, flavonoids, alkaloids, and saponins. Several types of mordants such as alum (Al<sup>3+</sup>), lime (Ca<sup>2+</sup>), and ferrous sulfate (Fe<sup>3+</sup>) were used in the dyeing process using three different techniques: pre-mordanting, meta-mordanting, and post-mordanting. The colorimetric data (<i>L</i><sup>*</sup>, <i>a</i><sup>*</sup>, <i>b</i><sup>*</sup>) and color strength (<i>K/S</i>) were measured for the characterization of the dyeing result. Alum was found to be a good mordant to achieve the best results of a bright and desirable yellow color. In this research, the influence of alum mordant concentration on color parameters and wash fastness rating was also conducted. An increasing trend in the <i>K/S</i> value and wash fastness performance of dyed samples was observed: post-mordanting &gt; meta-mordanting &gt; pre-mordanting. The 20% alum post-mordanted sample shows the highest <i>K/S</i> value of 14.19. The post-mordanting method provides the best washing fastness properties compared to other mordanting methods in the range of 4–5 (color change) and 3 (staining change). The higher the concentration of alum tended to increase the color strength of samples in pre-mordanted samples. However, the variation of alum mordant concentration did not significantly influence the wash fastness of the dyed cotton fabrics.</p>

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The Influence of Mordanting Process Variables on the Cotton Fabric Dyeing with Yellow Natural Dye from Extract of Arcangelisia flava (L.) Merr Stem

  • Edia Rahayuningsih,
  • Wachid Siti Fatimah,
  • Nur Miladatussholihah

摘要

A yellow natural dye from wood extract of Arcangelisia flava (L.) Merr. was investigated to dye cotton fabrics. In the preliminary phytochemical screening, the aqueous extract of A. flava stem was found to contain tannins/phenolic compounds, flavonoids, alkaloids, and saponins. Several types of mordants such as alum (Al3+), lime (Ca2+), and ferrous sulfate (Fe3+) were used in the dyeing process using three different techniques: pre-mordanting, meta-mordanting, and post-mordanting. The colorimetric data (L*, a*, b*) and color strength (K/S) were measured for the characterization of the dyeing result. Alum was found to be a good mordant to achieve the best results of a bright and desirable yellow color. In this research, the influence of alum mordant concentration on color parameters and wash fastness rating was also conducted. An increasing trend in the K/S value and wash fastness performance of dyed samples was observed: post-mordanting > meta-mordanting > pre-mordanting. The 20% alum post-mordanted sample shows the highest K/S value of 14.19. The post-mordanting method provides the best washing fastness properties compared to other mordanting methods in the range of 4–5 (color change) and 3 (staining change). The higher the concentration of alum tended to increase the color strength of samples in pre-mordanted samples. However, the variation of alum mordant concentration did not significantly influence the wash fastness of the dyed cotton fabrics.