Abstract Understanding spectral wave characteristics and long-term wave measurements is essential for ocean engineering activities and comprehending the complicated wave environment at any given location. Long-term in-situ measurements of ocean waves are generally sparse. In the Bay of Bengal (BoB), time series measurements of ocean waves at deep water sites BD11 and BD14 were utilised in this study. The wave spectra were computed and analysed using the in-situ wave measurements from Moored Buoys. The seasonal and interannual variations of wave spectra were studied for the period 2012–2018, at the Central and Southern regions of the BoB. The one-dimensional monthly averaged wave spectra analysis reveals that the maximum spectral energy density over the research period was 4.8 m2/Hz at BD11 in June 2018 and 6.7 m2/Hz at BD14 in July 2018. The study investigated the effect of Tropical Cyclones (TCs) on waves to understand the cyclone-induced changes. The spectral changes are greatly influenced by the distance between the cyclone track, wind speed and the cyclone intensity. Comparison of the in-situ measurements with model and satellite datasets was carried out to assess their performance. The results show that ERA5 data well correlates with the Buoy data than the satellite data. Research highlights <UnorderedList Mark="Bullet"> <ItemContent> The investigation of deep-water wave spectral characteristics in the Central and Southern Bay of Bengal using seven years of in-situ measurements reveals dominance of swells from the monthly averaged wave spectra. </ItemContent> <ItemContent> Strong seasonal and interannual variability are observed from the analysis. </ItemContent> <ItemContent> The time series analysis of maximum spectral energy shows that the spectral energy is higher during the SW monsoon and cyclone periods. </ItemContent> <ItemContent> The analysis of wave spectra during cyclones shows that the distance between the cyclone track, wind speed and the cyclone intensity greatly influences the spectral changes. </ItemContent> <ItemContent> Comparison of wave parameters from in-situ measurements with model and satellite datasets is performed, and it shows underestimation of ERA5 and satellite datasets, especially during extreme events. </ItemContent> </UnorderedList>

Investigation of wave spectra in the deep waters of the Central and Southern Bay of Bengal using measurements from Ocean Moored Buoys

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发表日期：

2026年7月23日

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Janani R,
Latha G,
Krishnaveni M,
Jossia Joseph K

摘要

Abstract

Understanding spectral wave characteristics and long-term wave measurements is essential for ocean engineering activities and comprehending the complicated wave environment at any given location. Long-term in-situ measurements of ocean waves are generally sparse. In the Bay of Bengal (BoB), time series measurements of ocean waves at deep water sites BD11 and BD14 were utilised in this study. The wave spectra were computed and analysed using the in-situ wave measurements from Moored Buoys. The seasonal and interannual variations of wave spectra were studied for the period 2012–2018, at the Central and Southern regions of the BoB. The one-dimensional monthly averaged wave spectra analysis reveals that the maximum spectral energy density over the research period was 4.8 m²/Hz at BD11 in June 2018 and 6.7 m²/Hz at BD14 in July 2018. The study investigated the effect of Tropical Cyclones (TCs) on waves to understand the cyclone-induced changes. The spectral changes are greatly influenced by the distance between the cyclone track, wind speed and the cyclone intensity. Comparison of the in-situ measurements with model and satellite datasets was carried out to assess their performance. The results show that ERA5 data well correlates with the Buoy data than the satellite data.

Research highlights

The investigation of deep-water wave spectral characteristics in the Central and Southern Bay of Bengal using seven years of in-situ measurements reveals dominance of swells from the monthly averaged wave spectra.

Strong seasonal and interannual variability are observed from the analysis.

The time series analysis of maximum spectral energy shows that the spectral energy is higher during the SW monsoon and cyclone periods.

The analysis of wave spectra during cyclones shows that the distance between the cyclone track, wind speed and the cyclone intensity greatly influences the spectral changes.

Comparison of wave parameters from in-situ measurements with model and satellite datasets is performed, and it shows underestimation of ERA5 and satellite datasets, especially during extreme events.