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<p>Insufficient understanding of the coupling mechanism between wind and wave directions in the deep ocean, as well as the spatiotemporal evolution of wave direction, significantly constrains the operational performance of marine engineering and offshore equipment. Utilizing observational data from five buoy stations in the Hawaiian waters from 2014 to 2023 and concurrent ERA5 reanalysis data, this study systematically quantified the long-term trend of wind-wave directional deviation, analyzed the evolution of wave composition using the wind wave energy fraction factor, and further revealed the spatiotemporal characteristics of abrupt shifts in wave direction by constructing a wave direction sequence database at short-term scales (30 min and 60 min) and a spatial scale of hundreds of kilometers. The results indicated an increasing trend in the proportion of wind wave energy over the decade, accompanied by periodic interannual fluctuations, which were closely related to changes in regional wind power density. The wind-wave directional deviation was relatively stable on an interannual scale, with nearly 50% of samples showing deviations greater than 30° over the ten-year period; however, seasonal differences were remarkable, with approximately 46% of samples in winter exceeding 50° deviation, compared to only 22% in summer. Wave direction variability exhibited a dual-mode characteristic of “overall stability with local abrupt shifts.” 70% of samples showed wave direction changes within 20° over 30 min, yet 15% of samples exhibited abnormal deflection greater than 30°, and these abrupt events showed no significant correlation with local wind fields or sea state; at the hundred-kilometer scale, 45% of samples experienced wave direction changes exceeding 30°, strongly associated with variations in wind fields. It is noteworthy that ERA5 reanalysis data significantly underestimated both short-term abrupt shifts and spatial variability in wave direction. These findings provide crucial scientific support for environmental load assessment in deep-ocean engineering, the prediction of operational safety windows, and the improvement of climate models.</p>

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Mechanisms of wind wave and swell partitioning and abrupt wave direction shifts in the deep-ocean: A decade of observations in the Hawaiian waters

  • 期刊论文

  • 发表日期：

    2026年4月22日

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  • Shijie Yao,
  • Wenyang Duan,
  • Minghao Zhang,
  • Wentao Xu

摘要

Insufficient understanding of the coupling mechanism between wind and wave directions in the deep ocean, as well as the spatiotemporal evolution of wave direction, significantly constrains the operational performance of marine engineering and offshore equipment. Utilizing observational data from five buoy stations in the Hawaiian waters from 2014 to 2023 and concurrent ERA5 reanalysis data, this study systematically quantified the long-term trend of wind-wave directional deviation, analyzed the evolution of wave composition using the wind wave energy fraction factor, and further revealed the spatiotemporal characteristics of abrupt shifts in wave direction by constructing a wave direction sequence database at short-term scales (30 min and 60 min) and a spatial scale of hundreds of kilometers. The results indicated an increasing trend in the proportion of wind wave energy over the decade, accompanied by periodic interannual fluctuations, which were closely related to changes in regional wind power density. The wind-wave directional deviation was relatively stable on an interannual scale, with nearly 50% of samples showing deviations greater than 30° over the ten-year period; however, seasonal differences were remarkable, with approximately 46% of samples in winter exceeding 50° deviation, compared to only 22% in summer. Wave direction variability exhibited a dual-mode characteristic of “overall stability with local abrupt shifts.” 70% of samples showed wave direction changes within 20° over 30 min, yet 15% of samples exhibited abnormal deflection greater than 30°, and these abrupt events showed no significant correlation with local wind fields or sea state; at the hundred-kilometer scale, 45% of samples experienced wave direction changes exceeding 30°, strongly associated with variations in wind fields. It is noteworthy that ERA5 reanalysis data significantly underestimated both short-term abrupt shifts and spatial variability in wave direction. These findings provide crucial scientific support for environmental load assessment in deep-ocean engineering, the prediction of operational safety windows, and the improvement of climate models.